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Clubsport, Kit 1 or Kit 2: an Authorized Bosch Motorsport Dealer's guide to choosing the right ABS M5 kit for your car.

ABS warning lamp coming on under hard braking? On converted cars the cause is usually where the wheel speed sensor measures from. Why outboard sensing matters, why the factory got away with inboard, and what a sequential gearbox changes.

Quick answer: You don't need a pedal box to run Bosch Motorsport ABS, a factory master cylinder and booster works well. If you do fit one, use ABS-rated master cylinders (AP Racing centre-valve or Tilton 79-Series), size bores to Bosch's ~80 bar lock-pressure optimum, and check front cylinder travel, on big-caliper cars volume, not pressure, is usually the limiting factor. Swapping an OEM booster and tandem master cylinder for a dual-master pedal box is one of the most common upgrades on a serious circuit car. Add Bosch Motorsport ABS to the same build and the master cylinder choice stops being a bolt-on decision and becomes an engineering one, the family, the bore sizes and the balance-bar split all have to suit the ABS as well as the driver. You don't need a pedal box to run ABS Worth saying up front: plenty of ABS M5 installs run the factory master cylinder and booster, and run them with excellent results, the M5 controls pressure downstream of whatever generates it. If the budget covers one major upgrade, the ABS is the one that changes braking performance and repeatability; the pedal box can come later, or not at all. This post is for the builds where both are on the table. The pedal box already suits the M5 The Bosch M5 is a two-circuit system: one hydraulic inlet for the front axle, one for the rear. A balance-bar pedal box is natively front/rear split (two master cylinders, one per circuit) which is exactly the architecture the M5 wants, and a cleaner match than the diagonal-split tandem arrangement most road cars leave the factory with. So when a build does make the move, the conversion suits the ABS perfectly. The catch is what goes in it. Settle the family before the bore We've covered the failure mode in detail elsewhere: under ABS control the system's pumps push fluid back toward the master cylinders, and conventional cut-off-port cylinders can have their seals progressively nibbled by that reverse flow. The consequence goes beyond a deteriorating pedal, seal debris carried downstream ends up inside the ABS hydraulic unit, where it interferes with the valves and degrades control. The hydraulic unit cannot be serviced, flushed or repaired internally: contamination that reaches it means replacing the unit. So the cylinder family is settled first: AP Racing's centre-valve cylinders (the CP7198 line and its siblings) or Tilton's 79-Series, both built for ABS use. That holds for pull-type pedal boxes too: for AP's flagship CP5596 reverse-pull floor-mount box, the matching cylinder is the CP6467, a pull-type, trunnion-mounted centre-valve unit that AP rates specifically for ABS and high-pressure applications, available in nine bores from 14.9 to 25.4 mm. Only once the family is right does bore sizing begin. Size to the ~80 bar optimum Bosch's M5 manual gives a number most brake-sizing conversations ignore: a locking pressure of around 80 bar is optimal for the ABS. Below it, the system has less pressure resolution to work with and the pedal goes soft; well above it, hydraulic elasticity grows and blunts control quality. So the target isn't just "a firm pedal the driver likes"; it's a line pressure at lock that lands the system in the window the ABS controls best. That turns bore selection into a real calculation. From the car's weight transfer at target deceleration on its actual tyre, you compute the line pressure at which each axle locks, then check it against that ~80 bar figure. On a well-matched package, say a time-attack front end with a six-piston caliper on a 370-odd mm disc, front lock tends to land from the high-60s up to right around 80 bar across the realistic decel band. That's the tell that the caliper, disc and pad are hydraulically well suited to the M5, and that you don't need to fight the numbers with odd master-cylinder bores. The gating check is travel, not pressure Here's the part that catches people out. Once the family is right and the pressure lands in the window, the deciding calculation is usually volume, not pressure. A smaller front bore buys pressure and a lighter pedal, but it costs travel, and with ABS the pedal must never approach the floor mid-control-event, because the system needs travel in reserve while it's cycling. Feeding two large six-piston calipers from a small front cylinder, the front master-cylinder swept volume against the calipers' fluid uptake, pad and caliper compliance, knockback, line swell, plus a margin for what the ABS itself demands, becomes the gating check. Get the pressure right and the travel wrong and the car brakes beautifully until the first ABS event on a bumpy corner. The balance bar still earns its keep People assume ABS makes the balance bar redundant. It doesn't. The mechanical bias still sets the car's behaviour with ABS off: a real map-switch position, and where you want sensible bias if the electronics ever drop out, and it shapes control quality within the ABS range too. A static front bias in the 55-60% region is a sensible starting point, tuned from there on data rather than guessed. ABS-rated doesn't mean fit-and-forget A centre-valve or 79-Series cylinder is built to tolerate ABS operation, not to ignore it. The pressure oscillations and vibration the system feeds back into the hydraulics are still wear drivers, and Bosch's own manual calls for frequent master-cylinder inspection on ABS cars. So the cylinders go on a maintenance schedule like any other wear item (inspected regularly, overhauled or replaced as condition dictates) rather than fitted and forgotten. The short version A factory master cylinder and booster works well with the M5; the pedal box is the optimisation, not the price of entry. When you do convert, a balance-bar pedal box is the right hydraulic architecture for the M5's two-circuit front/rear system. Settle the master-cylinder family first, AP centre-valve or Tilton 79-Series, before touching bore sizes. The wrong family can shed seal debris into the ABS unit, and the unit can't be cleaned, flushed or repaired, only replaced. Size to Bosch's ~80 bar lock-pressure optimum, not just to pedal feel. On a big-caliper front end, front master-cylinder travel and volume are usually the gating check, not pressure. ABS-rated cylinders still live on a maintenance schedule, inspected, overhauled or replaced as needed. Converting to a pedal box on an ABS car? Talk to us: we size the whole hydraulic circuit as one job. More on ABS-rated cylinders in master cylinders and motorsport ABS, and on the system itself in our Bosch Motorsport ABS guide. 909 Motorsport is an Authorized Bosch Motorsport Dealer in Newcastle NSW. We spec ABS-compatible pedal-box hydraulics (master cylinders, bore sizing and circuit layout) as part of a Motorsport ABS install.